Cellulose goods with permanent finish and process of producing same



Patented June 11, 1929 v UNITED STATES trials E 'l on 1 1% GEORGESHEIBERLEIN, WATTWIL, SWITZERLAND, ASSIGNOR TO HEBERLEIN PAT- ENTCORPORATION, OF NEW YORK, N Y A CORPORATION OF NEW YORK.

CELLULOSE GOODS WITH PERMANENT FINISH PROCESS OF PRODUCING SAME.

1T0 Drawing.

ing same. The invention is especially ap- 1 ess of producing same.

plicable to loose construction cotton fabrics and particularly those ofthe general order or character of fabrics known as mock voiles andvoiles made of loosely twisted yarn, although it is also applicable tovarious constructions of fabric both light and heavy.

The object of the invention is to improve or enhance the character andvalue of cellulose fibre goods by means of a suitable permanent Theinvention consists in the new and enhanced character of goods (fabricsand yarns) hereinafter described, and in the proc- The invention will bemore fully understood by reference to the prior state of the art, and bythe following description of the preferred manner of producing suchpermanent finish goods.

The treatment of cotton fibresto give them lustre, generally known asmercerizing, 1s. well known. This is accomplished by allowing strongcaustic alkali (at least 15B.) at normal temperaturellfl to 20 C.) toact for a short period, about 8 to 12 seconds, upon the fibre whileunder tension.

More recently, as described in United States Letters Patent No.1,265,082, it was found that if strong caustic alkali at below 0 (1, sayfor example at 10 G, was allowed to act upon sheer cotton fabric, suchfor example as organdies, for longer periods, a new action would takeplace, resulting in a permanent finish transparent effect. Still later,the discovery was made, as disclosed in United States Letters Patent No.1,439,519, that if coarse fabrics or fibres were subjected to saidstrong caustic at below 0 (3., say for example at 10 G, for a sufiicientduration, a permanent finish linen efiect would result.

It has now been discovered that if this strong caustic alkali is used ata temperature above 0 (3., which is about the upper limit for theproduction of the transparent and linen effects, and at a temperaturebelow the lower temperature limit used for mercerizing, there a isproduced neither the transparent nor linen effects on the one hand northe lustre efiect on the other, but the unexpected result is that thefabric attains a natural and lasting stiffness somewhat of the generalcharacter heretofore obtained as a temporary finish only, by applying adressing or sizing such as starch.

Application filed. July 30, 1925. Serial No. 47,126,

As pointed out, the invention is of special value with respecttolooseconstruction fabrics such for example as low grade voiles, so by way ofexample the preferred manner of practicing the process will be describedas applied to such voiles, As is known, a mock voile is one woven ofsingle yarn such for example as of N 0. 50 English count single yarn andweft; and a cheap or inferior voile of two ply yarn would be one say forexample of No. 50 English count two ply slack twist. Whereas a good fullvoile is one for example woven of No. 100 English count two ply yarn.

Voiles range in construction around 12-13 threads to the quarter of aninch warp and weft to 1616, and this invention is particularly useful intreating fabrics of this general order of looseness of construction,woven of either single ply yarn or loosely twisted multiple ply yarn.

If for instance one takes mock voile or a voile of two ply looselytwisted yarn and bleaches and mercerizes the same in the customarymanner, the voile possesses, in contrast to full voile fabrics, toolittle firmness and is too limp and rag-like for use. Such voiles,therefore, prior to this invention had to undergo the dressing sizing orfilling treatment with starch and the like to give them the necessaryhand to make them appear even temporarilyuntil washedsti1fer and fullerlike a full voile. The present invention does away with this filling ordressing process, and gives the desired body and stiffness which ispermanent, and also refines the fibres themselves as hereinafter morefully explained.

Tf nowaccording to the present inyention, one takes a mock voile orinferior :gvoile of multiple ply slack twist yarn and subjects it to theaction of cold caustic alkali of not less than 15 B., and at atemperature preferably between about 2 C. and about 6 C. for a suficienttime, and stretches the fabric in known manner while under action ofsaid caustic alkali, a very marked improvement takes place in thecharacter of the fabric, The durationof treatment of the goods willdepend upon the character of the goods bemg treated, but the treatmentshould be longer than that given for ordinary mercerization at normaltemperature. A treatment longer than that necessary to produce the neweffect will, however, not be disastrous to the desired effect. Forexample, in practice voiles treated with the caustic alkali of thestrength of 30 B. at a temperature of from about 4 C. to about 6 C. aresubjected to the action of the cold caustic alkali for from 20 to 60seconds. After the caustic treatment with stretching, the goods are asusual washed. The fabric acquires a natural full hand-a natural andlasting stiffness, making it unnecessary to give it a subsequentdressing or sizing. It becomes clearer, nicer, and experiences a changein the direction of and more similar to full voiles, and acquiressomewhat the general character of full voiles. The chemical action ofthe alkali under the conditions of the new process efiects a valuablerefinement of the yarn resulting in a quality improvement, thus givingto the fabric a higher fabric classification and hence an enhancedvalue. Furthermore, the finish thus produced is a permanent one not lostin washing, as is the case with goods dressed or sized with starch orthe like. i

It is not possible to set a precise line of demarkation as to thetemperature of the strong caustic alkali necessary to produce the neweffect, because it may be found to vary a little depending upon theparticular construction of the fabric to which it is applied, andpossibly also depending upon other conditions, such for example as someprior preliminary treatment of the goods or the use in conjunction withthe caustic alkali or after the caustic alkali treatment, of some otherreagent. But as a guide for those skilled in the art, in practicing theinvention, it is pointed out that from treatments thus far conducted, ithas been found that the best results are obtainable with the causticalkali at fromabout 2 to about 6 C. when treating voiles, and it hasbeen noticed in tests and experimentation that fabrics start to show theimproved effect when caustic is used at 0 to 1 C., and at 2 C. theeffect is quite noticeable.

The fabric treated with caustic alkali at this last temperature isconsiderably enhanced in quality. Employing caustic alkali at about 7(1., the new effect is substantially diminished, and when caustic alkaliis used at 8 C. this new efi'ect ofthe fabric is no longer noticeable.So far, therefore, as the broader aspect of the invention is concerned,I desire the invention to comprehend the .use 'of the caustic alkalifrom about 0 C. to

about 7 (1., although the effects with the use of the caustic alkali atfrom about 2 C. to about 6 C. are noticeably. improved over efiectsobtained by the use of caustic alkali either below or above this rangeof temperature.

In similar manner, other and heavier or coarser fabrics than voiles,such for example as fabrics woven from single yarns or multiple plyyarns, are improved in quality and character by the above describedtreatment.

While the invention has been described with particularity according tothe preferred method of practicing the same and with the use of coldcaustic alkali only as the reagent, it will be understood by thoseskilled in the art, after understanding the'invention, that changes andmodifications may be made therein without departing from the spirit orscope of the invention, and I aim in the appended claims to cover allsuch changes and modifications as come within the spirit and scope ofthe invention.

What I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is:

1. Method of producing a permanent finish in cellulose goods withincreased stiffness, which comprises subjecting the goods to treatmentwith caustic alkali of at least 15 B. at a temperature between about 0C. and 1 about 7 C. for at least 20 seconds, and tensioning the fabricwhile under the action of the caustic alkali.

2. Method of producing a permanent finish in cotton fabrics withincreased stiffness, which comprises taking for treatment looseconstruction cotton fabrics and subjecting the fabric to treatment withcaustic alkali of at least 15 B. at a temperature between about 0 C. andabout 7 C. for at least about 20 seconds so as to cause said fabric toacquire said increased stiffness.

3. Method of producing a permanent finish in cotton goods with increasedstiffness, which comprises subjecting the goods to treatment withcaustic alkali of at least 15 B. at a temperature between about 2 C. andabout 6 C. for at least 20 seconds and stretching the goods whileimpregnated with said caustic.

4. Method of treating mock voiles or voiles woven with loosely twistedyarn, to enhance their character, which comprises subj ecting suchvoiles to treatment with caustic alkali of at least 15 Be. at atemperature between about 0 C. and about 7 C. for at least 20 seconds,and stretching the fabric while impregnated with said caustic alkali,whereby said fabric is caused to acquire a character more nearly likethat of full voile.

5. Method of treating mock voiles or voiles woven with loosely twistedyarn, to enhance their character which comprises subjecting such voilesto treatment with caustic alkali of at least 15 B. at a temperaturebetween about 2 C. and about 6 C. for at least 20 seconds, andstretching the fabric while about 0 C. and about 7 C. for atleast 20seconds, and stretching the goods.

8. A loose construction cotton fabric having a permanent finish withincreased stiffness resulting from treating the fabric with causticalkali of at least 15 B. at a temperature between about 2 C. and about 6C. for at least 20 seconds, and stretching the 10 fabric.

In testimony whereof I have signed my nameto this specification.

GEORGES HEBERLEIN.

